Fugazzi: Where Dough Meets Sky at Kai Tak

High above the runway where history once roared, Cullinan Sky Mall is about to welcome a new kind of take-off. Fugazzi, a modern pizzeria-trattoria, is preparing to throw open its doors on the mall’s sky-lit third floor, promising Kai Tak a slice of Naples and a swirl of Rome without ever leaving the neighborhood. The name itself—Italian-American slang for “fake” or “phony”—is tongue-in-cheek: everything here is real, from the 24-hour cold-fermented dough to the San Marzano tomatoes still clinging to their volcanic soil perfume.

Step off the glass elevator and the first thing you notice is the aroma: blistered crust, garlic, and the faint caramel of fresh mozzarella hitting 480 °C. The oven is the star—a custom-tiled oven, hand-built in Naples, shipped piece by piece, and re-assembled like a puzzle here in Hong Kong. Around it, an open kitchen theater unfolds: pizzaiolos slap dough into perfect circles, pasta artisans feed bronze dies into slow-dried strands, and a lone nonna hand-rolls focaccia that smells like summer on the Ligurian coast.

The menu is tight, proud, and seasonal. Pizzas arrive uncut—Neapolitan tradition—soft in the center, leopard-spotted at the cornicione. Start with the signature classic “Diavolo”: fior di latte, spicy Calabrian salame piccante, and a drizzle of local wild-flower honey that bridges fire and sweet in one breath. The “Fugazzi Supreme” winks at New York, layering paper-thin pepperoni cups over vodka-blushed sauce and scamorza, then finishes with a shower of fresh oregano you can smell three tables away.